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The Question
I have a bottle of All Saints Show Reserve Madeira that I have been saving for a special occasion as it is no longer available. The bottle is not dated and I can't remember when I bought it. How much longer will it retain the character that made it such a special wine? And why doesn't All Saints continue to produce this wine even under a different name?

Dan Replies

Madeira is famed as being the longest lived wine. True Madeiras well over 200 years old are still drinking beautifully now. As your wine was made in a similar style, your bottle should be fine for a few years yet! In recent years the originators of styles have been reclaiming their heritage. Hence, champagne HAS to come from Champagne, cognac from Cognac, sherry from Jerez and madeira from Madeira (a tiny island belonging to Portugal). This is only fair, but it has brought to an end the production of many copy-cat wine styles made in the various wine producing countries of the New World. We can still make the wines, but we have nothing to call them. In many cases, the industry here has simply ceased production and Australian Madeira is one of those wines that has largely disappeared. On the other hand, we have continued to go from strength to strength with our sparkling wines, without missing the term Champagne at all. We are rightly proud of our heritage in Rutherglen and guard the reputation of our fortifieds with great care. Our unique wines are part of the rich tapestry of traditional wine that covers every part of the wine producing world. True Madeiras are also part of that tapestry and deserve our support and admiration. They come in a range of styles, but the one closest to our old wine, would be a Malmsey. As a winemaker with a commitment to fortifieds I have no hesitation in urging you to seek out some of those treasures from that tiny speck in the huge Atlantic Ocean. They are hard to find, but worth the hunt.